Lingerie Series, Part Two: Fabrics, Elastics & Stitches

My BERNINA Buddy, the B 770 QE PLUS, has been the perfect partner for creating lovely results from my lingerie garments. Lingerie fabrics and elastics require specific care and combinations of everything within your machine. With each approach to a new pattern, fabrics, threads or even needles, you will be hard-pressed to test fabrics before each project to make sure you will get those results.

Testing Your Fabrics

Microduoplex, Simplex, Tricot (Cup Fabrics) – test needles and thread for straight stitching

Stretch Band Fabrics (Power Net, TechSheen, Mesh) – test needles and thread for zig-zag stitching (regular and 3-step zig zag)

Closures and Straps w/Hardware – using the right presser foot and needle position to avoid hardware and breaking your precious needles.

The right combination: fabric + needle + thread + stitch width/length + straight or zig-zag + which zig-zag? + presser foot = whew!…..A GREAT STITCH!

Dual Feed

The most delicate fabrics that make lingerie need care and slow sewing.

Has your machine ever eaten the edge of your seam? The needle pushing the lightweight fabric down into the throat plate where your project could be damaged depending on the fabric….this will happen very rarely with a BERNINA 770 using a Dual Feed function. You can see how delicate the differential motion of the stitching makes a difference on delicate fabrics and elastics.

Straight Stitching on Stable Fabrics – 1/4” Seam Allowance using the needle placement.

3-Step Zig Zag Stitching on Band Elastics

Straight stitching on cups is the foundation of how you get support from the cup fabric, main fabric, and lining. Cups need to have structure at each sea,m including the seam attaching each cup to the band frame/crable. Practice stitching on these small areas of 1/4″ seam, and the BERNINA will help do this with the flexibility of the needle and the width of the various presser feet that come with it.

Elastic Straps and Closures

This is the part of the bra making where your stitching is important for small spaces, straight stitching, and very important to get accuracy because this is how the garment stays on and is comfortable.

Stay tuned for part three of my Lingerie Series: Making a Bralette with Knit and Elastics!