Denim Sewing Skill Builder Tote, Part Three

July 28, 2025 Erika Mulvenna

Build your denim sewing skills by making a blue jeans tote bag. All of the techniques used to sew this blue jeans tote, such as sewing a buttonhole on thick fabrics, decorative stitching a patch pocket, and topstitching straight lines can be applied to making a pair of denim jeans. In this three-part series, you’ll learn how to use special presser feet, accessories, and tools to make the job of sewing thick denim easier! In this post, learn how to sew all the pieces together to complete the tote.

Find the first post, Denim Sewing Skill Builder Tote, Part One, here for a full list of materials, tools, and instructions for making the pocket.

Click here to find the Denim Sewing Skill Builder Tote, Part Two, to learn how to sew the strap and use special tools to sew buttonholes on the thick layers of denim.

To finish sewing the tote together, you’ll need the Jeans Foot #8D, Overlock Foot #2A, along with all of your other sewing supplies.

Attach the Pockets to the Denim Sewing Skill Builder Tote

Use a ruler, fabric marking pen or pencil, and sewing pins for this step.

Pin the pockets to the right sides of the tote bag pieces. Center the pocket 4 1/2″ from the top edge, and about 4″ from each side, and pin in place.

Using a small ruler and fabric marking pen or pencil, draw a stitching guideline around the sides and bottom edges of the pocket, 3/8″ from the pocket edge. This guideline will help you topstitch a second line of stitching around the pocket edges.

Set up the sewing machine with the contrasting thread and Jeans Foot #8D. I use the Triple Stitch for all of the topstitching and edgestitching on the tote, but you can also choose a simple straight stitch. Set the length of the straight stitch or triple stitch to 3.5mm.

Begin sewing on the right side of the pocket edge, about 1/2″ down from the pocket top. I use the presser foot to help guide me along the edge, lining up the pocket edge with the right side of the small opening in the foot.

As you sew, pivot around the corners carefully. If you are using the Triple Stitch, watch closely to see that the machine has completed a stitch (forward, back, and forward once more) before pivoting to prevent an unwanted backstitch.

Sew around to the other top edge of the pocket. Pivot and take three stitches across the top of the pocket to land the needle on or near the 3/8″ guideline. Pivot to sew on the stitching guideline around the pocket a second time.

As in the steps above, watch your stitches carefully to pivot around each corner of the pocket.

To finish, pivot around the top edge of the pocket and sew a few stitches back over your starting stitches. Repeat with the other pocket.

Sew the Side Seams of the Denim Sewing Skill Builder Tote

The side seams of the blue jeans tote are finished like the side seams in a pair of blue jeans. The raw edges of the seams are finished with a visible overlock stitch that you can see inside the tote. As a final step, the seam allowance will be stitched down with lines of decorative stitching on the outside of the bag.

Use Overlock Foot #2A and a fun, colorful thread for this step (I use an Isacord 40 wt embroidery thread).

Select the zigzag stitch and sew a test stitch on the edge of a scrap; I increased the width of the zigzag slightly and shortened the stitch length to create a wider stitch with the thread landing closer together to showcase the bright thread color. When using Overlock Foot #2A, aim to line up the raw edge of the fabric with the little tab on the inner right side of the foot to create the perfect stitch. Overlock stitch the two sides and the bottom edge of the tote; leave the top raw edge and the inner corner squares unstitched.

Next, sew the tote together at the bottom seam. Install Jeans Foot #8D and thread that closely matches the denim for this step.

Pin the two tote pieces together, right sides matching, across the bottom edge.

Using a straight stitch, sew the bottom bag seam with a 1/2″ seam allowance, backstitching at both ends.

Press the bottom seam open and flat with a hot steam iron.

Topstitch the open seam from the right side of the tote. Change to the contrasting thread color. Use the straight stitch or Triple Stitch with a 3.5mm stitch length for this step.

Roll up the extra fabric in the tote to place the bottom seam flat on the machine. Sew about 1/4″ from the seam line, straight down each side of the seam.

Change the thread back to the color that matches the denim to sew the next tote seam.

Pin one side seam together, and stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance. As in the steps above, press the seam flat and open. This is where the pointed end of an ironing board, a sleeve board, or a pressing ham can come in handy to open the seam towards the bottom of the bag.

Change back to the contrasting thread to topstitch the seams in the next step.

To stitch on each side of this seam you will need to open up the tote, and removing the sewing table to use the free-arm will help. I have found it is easier to start at the bottom of the tote seam and sew towards the top. Flatten out the seam with your hands and smoosh the tote around until the seam is under the needle. Sew a small bit at a time, stopping to reposition the fabric and flatten out the next section in front of the presser foot as you sew. Repeat to sew down both sides of the seam as in the steps above.

Sew the final side of the tote together, pinning the two sides together and straight stitching with a 1/2″ seam allowance using thread that matches the denim. Press the seam flat and open, a sleeve board or sewing ham will help you reach the bottom part of the seam. Use the contrasting thread to topstitch each side of the last bag side seam.

Flip the tote right side out and slide it over the free arm to reach the bottom of the seam. You can see in the photo above how I have manipulated the tote to start sewing at the bottom of the seam; I sew a small bit at a time, repositioning the fabric as a go, until both sides of the seam are topstitched with the Triple Stitch.

Replace the thread with the color that matches the denim to sew the bottom corner seams; we’re almost finished stitching the tote seams together!

Pinch the bottom corner seams together, matching the side seams and pin in place.

Stitch across the corner seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance, backstitching at both ends.

After sewing the corner seams, trim seam allowance 1/4″ from the stitching.

Install the Overlock Foot #2A and the thread used to finish the raw, inside edges of the tote on the sewing machine.

Finish the raw edges of the corner seams with the same zigzag stitch used on the raw edges of the tote. Make sure to sew slow and steady when zigzagging over the bulky seams.

Set up the sewing machine to finish the top edge of the bag with Jeans Foot #8D and the contrasting thread.

At the ironing board, steam press the top, raw edge of the tote 1/2″ over to the wrong side.

Next, fold the pressed edge over again 1″ to the wrong side and steam iron nice and flat. Pin the folded over edge in place.

Stitch along the folded edge of the bag opening with the same stitch used for the topstitching on the tote; the straight stitch or the Triple Stitch set to a 3.5mm length.

Use the Height compensation tool in this step, a tool that looks like three white plastic blades that pivot. The height compensation tool levels an angled position of the presser foot sole when sewing over bulky seams, making it easier to stitch over the thick seams in the denim.

When the front of the presser foot reaches the thick, folded over denim seams, the foot will tip back as you begin to sew over the seam, making it difficult for the foot to maintain even presser on the seam. Use the Height compensation tool to even out the presser foot. Lower the needle in the fabric and raise the presser foot.

Place one, two, or three blades from the height compensation tool under the back of the foot make the foot as level as possible. Continue sewing over the thick seam and the foot will move away from the tool as you sew. Turn the bag right side out after stitching and press the top edge.

Time to attach the straps and buttons to the tote. Use thread that matches the denim, a sewing gauge or ruler, a fabric marking pen or pencil, and pins for this step. I use a pair of 7/16″ rivet buttons for the tote.

Find the top center of the bag by folding the side seams together and marking the center fold with a pin. The strap ends will attach 2 1/4″ on each side of the center. Measure over 2 1/4″ from the center pin mark, and make a dot about 1/2″ down from the top edge of the bag. Measure and mark on both sides of the center pin mark.

The mark on the right side of center is the point to attach your shank button. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to attach the rivet buttons to the bag directly on the mark to the right side of center.

I use a very sharp awl to make a hole for the rivet button, then use a small tack hammer to attach the button through the hole in the fabric.

Attach the strap through the bottom buttonhole to the button. Pull up on the strap gently so the button is seated at the very bottom of the buttonhole.

Center the other end of the strap over the mark to the left side of the center mark. The end of the strap should be even with the end of the buttoned-on strap, measuring approximately 1/2″ above the pocket edge. Pin the strap end in place.

Use thread that matches the denim and a straight stitch to sew the strap to the tote as shown in the illustration below.

Refer to the green and red stitch lines in the photo above. First, stitch around the end of the strap along the green lines, beginning about 1/2″ from the top edge of the bag and following just inside the decorative topstitching. Next, stitch an “X” pattern as shown to add strength to the strap end. Tip: Draw these stitch lines on the fabric with a fine-tipped fabric marking pen or pencil to help guide your stitches.

Sew the strap end down with a straight stitch following the stitch pattern pictured in the step above. I use the sewing machine free-arm to help maneuver inside the bag opening to stitch the strap ends down. After stitching, give the bag one final pressing with the steam iron.

Move the buttonholes up or down to lengthen or shorten the straps of the tote. When using the shortest strap setting, slide the long end of the strap inside the pocket.

Congratulations! Through sewing this little denim tote bag, you’ve learned several skills that will come in handy for sewing a pair of jeans with heavy denim: decorative stitching on a patch pocket, sewing buttonholes through thick layers, topstitching tips, and seam finishes.